Up at 3am, just in time for the hour long deep red sunrise as the ship bobs around the extraordinary fjords of the north. Up at 1am, lying on the deck as the aurora borealis start to rain down. Abandoning lunch to take another view of the ridiculously epic scenery of the west coast of Greenland. Abandoning ship to take Zodiacs around the transient icebergs and glaciers. Slowly, patiently ascending hillsides alone, to get close enough and with respect for the Arctic hares playing on the other side. This is wilderness; this is life.